JEWELRY MANUFACTURING PROCESS

Our Jewelry Manufacturing Process


Jewelry Center By Darach Co.,Ltd. proudly to present a process of  manufacturing. The handmade designs combine a unique production process and crafting tradition in SILVER JEWELRY MANUFACTURING PROCESS. Our passion to make a high quality, supreme crafted pieces in plain and oxidized silver that will suitable to all.
If you would like to see the jewelry making process in person, you can visit our production facilities in the heart of Bangkok city, Thailand. There yo
u can watch our artists creating works of art in person, while viewing their finished works in our adjoining showroom. The master jewelers on our staffs have experience of making jewelry more than 10 years. Jewelry Center By Darach team has created supreme silver jewelry that have been exhibited in international jewelry fair.

Assaying Your Jewelry


We combine high ethical standards to optimal accuracy in the acquisition and processing of precious metals. All of Jewelry Center By Darach Co.,Ltd silver metal can be traced to accredited sources. Our silver jewelry will be regularly tested by trained personnel in a reputable lab. The best means of testing is called assay, which is a destructive test that melts down 0.5 grams of metal or more so the alloyed elements and ratios can be accurately determined and this test is extremely accurate. We can provide you with the exact chemical composition breakdown for all materials present in our jewelry.
 

JEWELRY MANUFACTURING STEP 1 : JEWELRY DESIGN

Our jewelry starts with belief and inspiration. The designing process must require functional knowledge of metallurgy and design elements to achieve several goals. The artist can work within reasonable boundaries and unleash the talents and passion they possess. With a given theme and reasonable parameters on materials, it is possible to confidently design jewelry and reflect the mood or emotion desired. The pleasure and challenge of including each element in a jewelry pieces is to resolve the various factors that come into play.


Our Handicraft designer and CAD designer will create a life of jewelry design. The process of designing jewelry has relied on hand drawn sketches and hand carved wax models for years.

With CAD jewelry design, the cost of manufacture can be evaluated to meet customer’s budget without any actual production required. If the price point is too high as a consequence, we can make any adjustments to the dimensions, materials or both until the target is met. Consequently, we can do a better decision making before carving the jewelry model. This could be barely achieved with the traditional handcraft technique.

JEWELRY MANUFACTURING STEP 2 : WAX CARVING

After the design is finalized, the next jewelry manufacturing process is to create wax model with all the fine details by a computer-aided wax-making machine. The computer file of the 3D model is transferred to a milling machine to cut out a wax model or a 3D printer will grow an exact replica of the jewelry. The end result of wax model can be mathematically precise and offer mechanical feel to it. The hand carved is absolutely essential to present a more organic design which showcase vibrant curves of natural forms and softer sensibility of the jewelry. In the molding department, the experienced molders will incorporate the traditional technique to hand carve all the dimensional and intricate details to turn the rough wax mold into fine carved wax mold in which the advance technology cannot replicate.

JEWELRY MANUFACTURING STEP 3 : SILVER MASTER MOLD

The fine carved wax is then imbedded in a metal cylinder which will be filled with plaster-like investment and left to harden. The mold containing the hardened plaster is heated in an oven at extreme temperatures to burn away any wax traces, leaving a hollow impression of a jewelry shaped in the hardened investment. That space is filled with silver, forming a duplicate of the original wax design, or called the silver master model.

JEWELRY MANUFACTURING STEP 4 : THE RUBBER MOLD

The silver master model is then packed into a fat sandwich of special mold rubber and squeezed tight under high heat and pressure until it forms a solid block. The rubber forms itself around the master model, creating a perfect three-dimensional impression of the piece of jewelry. The rubber is cut in half to remove the silver master. Then the rubber is put back together and the final result is the rubber mold which can be accurately duplicated for thousands of wax replicas for mass production.

JEWELRY MANUFACTURING STEP 5 : TREE WAX

First to injecting wax into the rubber mold, the rubber mold cavities must be cleaned with an air gun or soft bristled brush. The wax injector must use a mold release product, such as talcum powder to make an air way opening. The use of powder is absolutely necessary because it enables the parts of the rubber mold to remain separate, and thus ensures the complete escape of all air and allows the injected wax to completely fill all crevices of the rubber mold. Following these cleaning and maintenance steps will guarantee easy removal of the wax from rubber molds.

Now hot wax can be injected through a hole in the rubber to fill the jewelry-shaped space inside, forming a wax reproduction of the master model. With the use of our vacuum wax injectors we are able to duplicate excellent results. After the wax hardens, it can be removed and inspected for quality, and will reveal any flaws in the rubber mold. Every wax model must be inspected with a 10x loop. Once a wax has passed through the quality control team, it is time to attach the wax to a small wax tree.

The wax tree will be placed into a metal cylinder, known as a flask, so that a plaster substance, combining investment powder and water can be poured over to create the molds. The flask of wax models is then put into an extremely hot oven overnight so that the detail of the wax pieces is captured in the mold as the wax is absorbed. The quality of the wax is probably the most underrated part of the casting process. Any defects in the wax like distortion or internal air bubbles will dramatically affect the end results of your casting. Our mold cutters and wax injectors work very closely to ensure that every mold is working perfectly to produce the finest wax possible.

After the wax tree is placed in the metal cylinder, known as a flask, a special liquid plaster called investment is mixed and poured over the tree to encase it all in plaster. The mold is placed in a vacuum chamber before it hardens to remove any air bubbles that could cause problems down the line. Once the plaster mold hardens and cures, the mold is then put into an extremely hot oven overnight so that the wax is burned out, leaving a branching tree hole in the plaster to be filled with molten metal.
 
After the mold is hardened and wax is burned out, grains of silver alloy and other metals added to it, are melted in a separate casting machine furnace. When the metal is the correct temperature, it is poured into the hardened plaster mold with the tree impression. Sometimes it is spun to make sure that the molten silver quickly fills the topmost branches of the tree, with every detail, before it starts to cool. Once the silver hardens, the mold will be put into a bucket of cold water to dissolve the plaster.

Now the silver tree can be reached and pull out jewelry models that are the exact replica as the initial wax pattern. The models are then cut free from the sprue and forwarded to jewelers who will execute jewelry polishing, jewelry fabrication, and stone setting to transform the casting into fine jewelry.

We have worked with our metal suppliers to come up with exact casting parameters for all of our silver works. You can be ensured that we have a specific digital program stored in our database to achieve perfect casting quality and repeatability. Still, the final piece is checked again to make sure that no errors were introduced during the casting process. In particular, quality controllers check for any signs of porosity in the casting: little grains, voids, or bubbles that indicate that the hot gold didn’t properly fill the mold, creating a strong single unit of metal. Porosity can be an indication of weakness in the metal’s crystalline structure.

JEWELRY MANUFACTURING STEP 6 : PRE POLISH

The next step in jewelry manufacturing is buffing and polishing. Jewelry polishing is a multistage process whereby metal is buffed with soft rotary tools made from bristles, felt, or muslin. Applied in descending stages, from coarse to fine, wheels are charged with various polishing compounds to achieve the desired luster. The experienced craftsmen in our polishing department employ special techniques that bring out the ultimate luster in every piece of jewelry we create. Buffing and polishing are the two procedures used to produce the final high luster on jewelry. Although often used interchangeably these are two separate operations. Buffing is an abrasive process where a small amount of the surface is removed. Tripoli is the most commonly used compound for buffing. It will remove minor scratches left from sanding and smooth out all surfaces, however it will not bright polish. Jewelry pieces require buffing before the gemstone is set. This is because once the gemstones are set the area below the gems portion cannot be polished and may affect the shine of the gemstones.

The final high luster is achieved by polishing which will be done at the last stage of jewelry manufacturing. Polishing uses harder compounds such as rouge. Varieties of rouges are available for different uses and are distinguished by their color. With rouge, there is almost no cutting action; it burnishes the metal, moving the surface layer around to smooth the fine scratches left from buffing. The natural properties of oxidized silver are revealed and showcased during this process as these pieces are painstakingly polished by hand.
 

JEWELRY MANUFACTURING STEP 7 : FINAL POLISHING


Now the piece of jewelry is finished and it only needs a light final polish to bring out the high luster and shine of the silver. Polishing uses harder compounds such as rouge to achieve the desired luster. Varieties of rouges are available for different uses and are distinguished by their color. For silver metal, this is done by putting fine red jeweler’s rouge on a soft cotton cloth and buffing the piece by hand, making sure that all the details and highlights shine. With rouge, there is almost no cutting action; it burnishes the metal, moving the surface layer around to smooth the fine scratches left from buffing.

special techniques that bring out the ultimate luster in every piece of jewelry we create. The natural properties of oxidized silver are revealed and showcased during this process as these pieces are painstakingly polished by hand. As a final jewelry manufacturing process, the jewelry pieces are now ready to be worn and appreciated by the wearer for its beauty and work.

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JEWELRY CENTER BY DARACH CO., LTD.
25-27 Tanao Road, Bangkok, 10200 Thailand.

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